8.06.2011

Trip 2.33, The Last

(I'm starting to write this as I sit in an uncomfortable seat in Miami's airport. It's 2:00 in the morning, and I'm simply trying to stay awake until my flight at 6:00. I might not finish here, though, as I am already very tired from today.)

But back to yesterday.

I knew I had at least eighty miles to cover on the last day, so I planned to get an earlier start. True to form, however, I didn't. Well, not much.

Of course it was hot. Even being closer to the water didn't help. In fact, I got a chance to wade a little the night before, and I couldn't believe how warm the water was. Like bath water. I've never been to a tropical locale, so this was new for me.

The lower keys were pretty devoid of the commercialism I'd grown used to on this trip. Not completely devoid, but enough to make me feel like I had gotten somewhere new.

The bridges are pretty cool. The shoulder is excellent, so I was able to keep my head up to look around.














At one point, on a bit of land, a passenger in a truck felt the need to yell and point, "Bike path!" Yes, there is a bike path-- a crappy one that starts and stops, curves, and is at times covered in sand. So I stuck to the vehicle road because I knew that the bike path bridge would be unreliable. Like this:


If I had taken the bike path over there, I would have had to ride back at least a mile to get to this bridge.


And again...



The last ten miles of any day seem endless, and these ten especially so. But finally...


Another couple of miles would get me to the "southernmost" point in the United States. Except it's actually not. Look on any decent map and you can see points further west that are also further south. But I couldn't skip this landmark. I would have gotten closer to snap a picture, but that would have taken another half hour. Long, long line. A guy standing in line asked about my trip, and then asked if I would get in the picture with his family. I agreed, and it gave me the chance I wanted to touch the marker.


I had been studying Google maps for the past few weeks and knew already precisely where I would end this adventure. It was a little tricky finding my way to the Fort Zachary Taylor Park, but I did.


And then to this beach and this spot...






And that was it. Two girls were sunning close by, and I asked them to snap some pictures. They were glad to. Between them and a guy swimming nearby, I could hear whisperings spreading down the beach. "He came from Maine, and this is the end."












There are no shots of me after I stripped down to my bike shorts and got in the ocean. I swam out a little, turned over on my back, and just floated.

It's impossible for me to wrap my mind back around all the miles I had to travel to get to this place, or to remember all the preparation and planning over the last year. So I don't even try. I just lie back, and stretch my legs, and listen to the warm water rumble in my ears.



Location:N Roosevelt Blvd,Key West,United States

8.03.2011

Trip 2.32

Really, really hot today. I left the motel, got back on the bike path, and followed it all the way to a point where all civilization ends (for 20 miles). So I actually had to double back to find something to eat first.


When I got back on Route 1, it was to mile after mile of this. I thought maybe the fences were for illegal entry by immigrants, but they were more likely for alligators.





I slammed on the brakes to take this. I've never seen water this shade of green.


"Honey, I was your hero, and you were my leading lady!" A true one-hit wonder.


Had the best gazpacho of my life at this place. The seared tuna wasn't bad either, but the best thing about this place? The air conditioning.





I could count on one hand the number of people I saw outside for the next 20 miles. As a woman I met said, "We just move from air conditioning to air conditioning." The only other way to stay cool is to be out on the water.





I wanted to stop on time to get a chance to walk around, see the water. It wasn't easy, but I sneaked into the grounds of another motel and found a spot to lounge. There actually wasn't a single person around anywhere, but it still was technically "sneaking".
































I am 83 miles from my destination. One day and it's over.

Location:Old Hwy,Islamorada,United States

Cyclemeter Cycle (Road) Aug 3, 2011 11:03:01 AM

Finished Cycle: Aug 3, 2011 5:33:26 PM
Route: New Route
Google Maps URL: http://maps.google.com/?q=http://share.abvio.com/08f0/80a8/4c0e/23bd/Cyclemeter-Cycle-20110803-1103.kml
Shortened Google Maps URL: http://j.mp/olY04H
Import URL: http://share.abvio.com/08f0/80a8/4c0e/23bd/Cyclemeter-Cycle-20110803-1103.kml
Ride Time: 4:26:17
Stopped Time: 2:04:08
Distance: 59.48 miles
Average: 13.40 miles/h
Fastest Speed: 19.73 miles/h
Ascent: 141 feet
Calories: 3421

http://www.cyclemeter.com

Cyclemeter Cycle (Road) Aug 3, 2011 11:03:01 AM

Started Cycle: Aug 3, 2011 11:03:01 AM
Route: New Route
Google Maps URL: http://maps.google.com/?q=http://share.abvio.com/08f0/80a8/4c0e/23bd/Cyclemeter-Cycle-20110803-1103.kml
Shortened Google Maps URL: http://j.mp/olY04H
Import URL: http://share.abvio.com/08f0/80a8/4c0e/23bd/Cyclemeter-Cycle-20110803-1103.kml

http://www.cyclemeter.com

Trip 2.31

This was the most urban day of the trip. I never had a break from four- to six-lane traffic. And though it seems dangerous, it is much safer to ride in the flow of cars than on any sidewalk. Why? Goddamn bicyclists, that's why. I saw at least 100 people on bikes today, and not one of them was riding with any predictability. Lucky for me not one of them was riding in the street either. I saw a guy ride diagonally through an intersection while holding another (unmanned) bike at his side. I saw a woman riding on the handlebars of a guy who was crossing in the middle of a busy block. It's hard to argue for more bike lanes when most riders don't use the existing ones anyway.

Late in the day I was riding down a parkway. It wasn't illegal, but I'm sure they don't see many bikes in those lanes. I was moving with the flow of traffic, which was bumper-to-bumper, and barely moving. At one slow point, I caught a woman to my left rolling down her window to try to say something to me. She was shaking her head trying to warn me not to ride here. (I'm not positive. I had my headphones on.) Picture this: the woman is leaning toward me from the driver's seat, holding a cell phone in her left hand while holding the steering wheel with her right. Lucky for her she looked forward just in time to slam on her brakes before she rolled into the car in front of her. I pedaled away, enjoying the irony.





I've been eating pretty light during the day, but indulging at night. This morning I stopped at a diner where I had four if the wait staff remarking about my trip. They were quite motherly, and offered the same thing I hear from most people, "Be safe."


I felt really good on the bike today. I think it had to do with the fact that I had a lot (a lot!) of short breaks, otherwise known as traffic lights. But these same breaks made for slow going, and I ended the day a little shorter than I wanted to.

The last five miles were quite unusual in that they were incredibly peaceful. The picture below shows why. All the way to the left is the congested traffic I had been riding in all day. But now there was also this bus road that ran parallel to Route 1. It's only for buses (and cops). There are stops every half mile, and most of them had people waiting. Furthest to the right is this wide bike lane, no motorized vehicles allowed. It was this awesome co-existence between these different modes of transportation like I've never seen before. (Maybe more like "separate but equal". This is the south.)


If all goes as planned, I will be in Key West in two days, ahead of tropical storm Emily. I will meet a twenty-something redhead who is fascinated by my trip, and she will offer to drive me back to Miami to catch a train home. As long as she's not leaning out of her seat, holding a cell phone when we meet, I'll accept. (Who am I kidding? Redhead? She could run over my foot and I'd accept.)

Location:Caribbean Blvd,Miami,United States

8.01.2011

Trip 2.30

I woke a little earlier than usual this morning anxiously anticipating the appearance of this mythical WNW wind.

I got on the road, looked around, and yes! Sort of. The grass was sort of bending in my direction. But that might have been from the traffic flowing by me.

Regardless, I got 25 miles in with little effort. I also remembered to find a bike shop to pick up some spare tubes.

You know in the movies when some dork knocks over the first bike in a line of motorcycles and then they all domino over? Just in the movies, right.

The picture below was taken after I stood every single bike back up.


The headwind came back in the afternoon, and I had to stop every three to five miles just to get the rumbling out of my ears. I persisted, and late in the day it lessened. I called ahead to this Super 8, and finished the day with almost 85 miles.

I expect when I read this blog in the future it will help little to remember the details of this trip. But I also don't think that's my fault. The scenery changes very little on this route; the people have been friendly, but quiet and apathetic toward me. The weather has been challenging (the heat, rain, and wind), but repetitive. The roads are good, and then not so good, and then good again.














There's a definite "been there, done that" feeling to this trip. And though I've planned two more of these, one across the southern states and one up the west coast, I'm not feeling them now. There are other places I'd like to visit, to learn about. But I think I'll take the Smart Car.

Location:Pine Tree Dr,Lantana,United States

Trip 2.29

When do you know it's too windy? When the birds seek shelter in a convenience store.







Seriously exhausting day. Pedaling twice as hard to go half as fast is depressing. Unlike the breezes that have been plaguing me, this wind could stop me in less than ten yards once I stopped pedaling.

Even though I still got almost 60 miles in, it felt like a defeat. Similar to the beginning of the trip, I feel anxious if I don't see big gains on the map.

I checked my weather app, and literally yelped out loud when I saw the forecast for the next day. WNW winds?! I've been pedaling through nothing but SE and SW winds for weeks.


We'll see.

Location:Vero Beach, Florida